Immediate Fire Hazard · Act Now
Turn off that circuit breaker immediately — do not plug anything back in.
Electrical outlets, switches, and breaker housings are molded from heat-resistant thermoset plastics. When a loose wire lug, backstabbed receptacle, or failing breaker begins arcing, those polymers release a distinct acrid plastic or "dead fish" odor before visible smoke appears.
What to do in the next 60 seconds:
- If you see active smoke or flame, evacuate everyone (and pets) immediately and call 911 from outside.
- If there is no smoke, go to your breaker panel and switch OFF the breaker controlling that room or appliance. If the main panel itself smells hot or buzzes loudly, shut off the Main Breaker only if the panel cover is cool to the back of your hand.
- Never touch a scorched metal outlet screw or wet floor, and do not flip an overheating breaker back ON "just to test it."
Who handles this: DC Electric Licensed Troubleshooter (Customer-Side Wiring/Panel) Utility crews cannot repair interior outlets or branch breakers. A licensed electrician should open the box, cut back heat-damaged copper insulation, and torque a commercial-grade replacement.
Read full Burning/Fishy Smell Safety Guide → Check Free Utility Service Leg First
One of your two 120V power legs is out — check your utility before paying an electrician.
Every Austin home receives two 120V hot legs (240V total) from the utility transformer. When one leg drops, roughly half of your 120V lights/outlets go dark and 240V appliances (central AC, electric dryer, oven, EV charger) stop running—even though no breaker looks tripped.
What to do in the next 60 seconds:
- Turn OFF your central AC thermostat and unplug sensitive 240V equipment so a partial-voltage leg does not damage compressor windings.
- Call your electric utility outage line below FIRST and report "partial power / dropped leg." Over half the time in Central Texas storms or heatwaves, the loose lug is on the utility pole or pad transformer — and your utility repairs their side at $0 cost to you.
- If your utility tests the meter and confirms full 240V arriving at the meter base, the failure is customer-side (corroded meter jaws or a failed main breaker) — call DC Electric and we will take it from there.
Who handles this: Call Your Utility Outage Line First ($0 Utility Check) → Then DC Electric We never want an Austin neighbor paying a service fee for a utility-owned pole splice. Always let Austin Energy, Oncor, PEC, Bluebonnet, or GUS verify their drop first.
Explore Customer-Side Main Breaker & Meter Repairs → High Priority · Loose Neutral Risk
Brightening lights signal a dangerous loose neutral — protect electronics today.
A brief 1-second dip when a 4-ton AC compressor starts can be normal inrush current (often cured with an AC soft-start). However, if lights in one room get noticeably BRIGHTER while lights elsewhere dim when a microwave, toaster, or hair dryer runs, your 120V legs are unbalanced due to a failing neutral connection.
What to do in the next 60 seconds:
- Unplug expensive electronics, OLED TVs, and countertop appliances on affected circuits — a floating neutral can send 145V–170V into a 120V outlet and fry control boards.
- If overhead tree limbs rub your backyard power drop (common in Tarrytown, Hyde Park, Barton Hills & Travis Heights), ask your utility to check their overhead neutral splice while scheduling an inspection of your main panel neutral bus.
- If flickering happens ONLY on one dimmer switch with LED bulbs, it is safe — usually an incompatible legacy dimmer rather than a loose neutral.
Who handles this: DC Electric Diagnostic Evaluation (+ Utility Check if Overhead Drop) We test voltage under load at both the meter and main panel busbar so we pinpoint whether the loose neutral is inside your panel or out at the utility tap.
Read Austin Flickering Lights Diagnostic Guide → Latent Fire Hazard · Plan Replacement
High-failure breakers and oxidized aluminum splices look normal until overloaded.
Homes built across Austin between 1950 and 1982 frequently still carry Federal Pacific Electric (FPE Stab-Lok) or Zinsco / Sylvania panels—documented for failing to trip during overloads—or 1965–1976 single-strand aluminum branch wiring that expands and loosens at brass outlet screws.
What to do in the next 60 seconds:
- Do not pry off the dead-front metal inner cover yourself, and avoid running space heaters or high-draw EV adapters on legacy FPE/Zinsco circuits.
- Look at the inside door label: red-tipped breakers or "Stab-Lok" indicate Federal Pacific; pastel blue/pink/green vertical handles indicate Zinsco.
- Schedule a pressure-free evaluation. We replace high-failure hazard panels in one coordinated day (backed by our 10-year panel warranty) and perform CPSC-recognized AlumiConn torque-verified remediation.
Who handles this: DC Electric Panel & Remediation Team (TECL #38552) Replacing an FPE or Zinsco panel also resolves the #1 red flag on Texas homeowners insurance renewals and TREC real estate option-period inspections.
See Same-Day FPE & Zinsco Replacement Details → Shock Protection Active · Do Not Force
Your GFCI or AFCI is doing its job — trace moisture or hidden upstream resets.
After heavy Central Texas storms, wind-driven rain enters aging exterior bubble covers, holiday lighting cords, or pool/patio boxes. A single garage or bathroom GFCI receptacle often protects 4–8 downstream outlets across the house.
What to do in the next 60 seconds:
- Unplug every cord from outdoor patio, soffit, garage, and landscape outlets first.
- Check garage walls, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and exterior walls for a tripped TEST/RESET receptacle. Press RESET firmly with dry hands only after unplugging wet outdoor cords.
- If water is dripping INTO your main breaker panel or meter can, stand clear of wet concrete and call immediately — water inside a live busbar corrodes breaker jaws and can arc.
Who handles this: DC Electric Same-Week Repair (Weather-Resistant GFCI & In-Use Covers) We upgrade leaky flat exterior flaps to NEC-compliant weather-resistant (WR) GFCI receptacles with heavy-duty weatherproof in-use covers.
Explore Weatherproof GFCI & Outlet Repairs → Check Beep Pattern First (4 Beeps = CO)
Count the beeps: 4 rapid beeps means Carbon Monoxide; 1 chirp means battery/age.
Hardwired 120V smoke and carbon monoxide alarms communicate interconnected alerts across every bedroom and hallway. Knowing the beep pattern tells you in seconds whether you have a life-safety emergency or an expired 10-year sensor.
What to do in the next 60 seconds:
- 4 rapid beeps, pause, 4 rapid beeps: Active Carbon Monoxide (CO) alarm. Move everyone outside to fresh air immediately and call 911 — CO is odorless and invisible.
- 3 loud beeps, pause, 3 loud beeps: Smoke/fire alarm trigger (or heavy steam/attic dust inside an aging sensing chamber). Verify no fire or hot electrical smell first.
- 1 single chirp every 30–60 seconds: Low backup battery OR end-of-life timer. NFPA 72 requires replacing every smoke/CO unit every 10 years because sensors lose sensitivity.
Who handles this: 911 if 4-Beep CO / Smoke Emergency · DC Electric for 10-Yr Hardwired Replacement We replace aging chirping alarms house-wide in one visit with interconnected 120V photoelectric smoke + CO units carrying sealed 10-year lithium backups.
See Whole-Home 10-Year Smoke & CO Replacement → Need a licensed DC Electric troubleshooter? 24/7 phone & online booking · 24/7 emergency dispatch for existing customers · Written flat-rate price first.